False error codes / Strange copy quality / Random paper jams / etc.
Truly there are too many examples to mention where power at the wall outlet could be causing you problems. So many times we troubleshoot a machine forgetting that the incoming power at the wall should be our first test.
Many of you will shrug off this tip and think I’m off my rocker; but trust me when I say I have seen it enough to post it here. I always get “push back” from technicians when I suggest wall voltage. “How can it change over the years the machine has been here?” they ask. Think about it…
- Wintertime, customer gets cold, plugs in a space heater to the same circuit as the MFP.
- Customer buys a new/old fridge for the break room. (on the other side of the wall)
- Customer add a new florescent light to their desk. (on the same circuit)
- Machine has been pushed back into the outlet dislodging the box and damaging the conduit.
I could go on and on (Yes I have seen each one of these examples).
The next question I get is how do I test the outlet and what should my multi-meter read? Below is an example of a 15amp outlet.
H = Hot or Line voltage (should read 115 to 120VAC)
G = Ground (Ideal is 0, MUST not be more than 1.0VAC)
N = Neutral (Should be equal to Hot. No more than 5 % difference)
Lastly, Sharp suggests all MFP placements be installed on a dedicated circuit with NO Extension cords & a SURGE SUPPRESSOR.
15 AMP OUTLET – 20 AMP OUTLET
** 120VAC, 60Hz, 15 AMP Part# AR-D5133NT
** 120VAC, 60Hz, 20 AMP Part# AR-D5143NT